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Bonnie's: Unnecessarily impersonal cooking but high in wow factor

newly Opened, imposing Bonnie's in the Bank Hotel sits right on the Blasieholmen peninsula – a part of the inner city with a particular nobel air. Here reigns the banks, auction houses and sumptuous seafood restaurants. The veneers are tight, gångtrafikanterna on gatstenen modest. The hotel's art nouveau-inspired facade and its heavy bronze doors hides the premises which had previously been the right bank, then the showroom for Orrefors and lawyers.

But new times mean new business. Now Bonnie's here, flanked by several intimate and almost full bars with aw-craving finansfolk – as well as, of course, a hotel section for övernattare. The restaurant is housed in the heart of the premises, the old bank hall, which boasts six meter high ceiling, glass windows and huge chandeliers, but also with nice checkered floor and lots of big green plants.

at Sveavägen manage Bonnie's, although a little problematic acoustics, combining luxurious wow-feeling of cosiness. If the last Italian restaurant feels like an interior for a smart romkom that takes place in Manhattan or in Paris, so would Bonnie's able to be the backdrop to a glamorous, kolonialdoftande kostymdrama. Bonnie's international kitchen goes well with the interiors. There is no personal cooking, but competent on a typical hotellanonymt way.

Restaurant Bonnie's is located in the heart of the room. Photo: Krogkommissionen

This caution – that can be studied in the nearest dining room on any of the global hotel chains – feels very anachronistic, 2018. Why would just no be a particularly careful matgäst? It is not contrary to the on the move would be particularly glad of the spirited and innovative cooking? A försiktighetens philosophy is reflected in Bonnie's also in the restaurant, that is friendly and prompt, but impersonal and well discreet.

why would just no be a particularly careful matgäst? It is not contrary to the on the move would be particularly glad of the spirited and innovative cooking?

A fat with oily Spanish Marcon-almonds of the best quality (65 sek) and sötsyrliga boquerones (55 sek) is, of course, a safe start paired with a glass of champagne from Perrier-Jouët. The fancy wine list is composed by Fredrik Horn from the Back, and Frantzén and holds a generous charge glasviner that impresses.

Krogkommissionen for example, have been able to choose a grilled langoustine escabeche (195 sek), a beautifully grilled lobster with a dense saffrans and chilidoftande sauce. An elegant stripped artichoke cooked in the provencal way, artichoke à la barigoule, is an excellent introduction. Price, 165 sek, should, however, deter some guests.

the House burrata, a commodity in high demand, served on the thin tomato slices and costs a tenner less, but feels more exclusive. Deep-fried vaktellår get a well-balanced company with beetroot, harissa, grilled plum and kycklingsky (165 sek). Ostronsoppan (175 sek) is, unfortunately, well salt.

pike-Perch with bouillabaissesås, 295 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

Should we only eat meat once a year is Bonnie's paradrätt chateaubriand bordelaise (415 usd) is a good candidate. A fantastic välgrillad piece of meat, well over six inches high with the classic French bordelaisesåsen (red wine, marrow bones), mushrooms, jerusalem artichokes, and crunchy pistachios in addition.

(295 sek) has also scored just the time it needs in the griddle. This fixed abborrfisk served in a smaktät bouillabaissesås with tomato, Spanish ganxetbönor, artichoke and aioli. A flawless butter fried turbot (365 sek), this cut-out, it is the responsibility of the smörspegel with mushrooms. The kitchen Paillard-chicken – in unnecessarily gloomy bruntonad presentation – is carried forward for a more modest 245 sek.

the Menu is more choosy when it comes to vegetarian dishes. At one of KK's visit is a warm salad (215) kr) with grilled plums, ärthummus, etc. An ambitious and stylish serving, but without a real finish. Plum with pious browned but raw core gives a slightly boring feel of the fruit salad.

Warm salad with grilled plums, 215 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

Dessertlistan houses, among other things, a decent melonvariation (sek 115), but fortunately also an attraction: the city center's most instagramvänliga dessert must be Bonnie's Smash the piggybank (smash the piggy bank) kidding a little with the bar's past. It is a real show. Out rolled a fat chokladgris on the wagon. The in the society who feel most aggressive, may take a little guldhammare and crush nassen, which is filled with meringues.

With its price of 295 sek, is this something for liquid Waste rather than reasonable Save. On the other hand, enough of the childish sweet dessert with minimaränger, blåbärssorbet, hazelnuts and salt caramel sauce to at least three people. And the pig make a great picture for those who insist on spreading the problem with the phone.

Read more of Krogkommissionens tests

Restaurant trading house in Saltsjöbaden. Photo: Krogkommissionen
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