Where vacationers swim with humpback whales

When Captain James Cook wanted to discover the remote island in the South Pacific for Europe in 1774, he made three attempts to go ashore. In vain, the residents prevented him. Savage Island, the "island of the savages," Cook called the 260 square kilometer coral island, which lies 2400 kilometers northeast of New Zealand - because the people there were allegedly soiled with blood. In fact, the color on her teeth was just the red juice of the Fe'i banana.

For the next 200 years, however, the scary term remained, until the original name Niue (translated: “See the coconut”) prevailed again. He fits better too. First, the Niueans are anything but wild, they are considered to be extremely hospitable. Visitors to the laid-back island nation, where Niuean (a Polynesian language) and English are the official languages, are welcome everywhere, even at the traditional Niuean initiation festivals, where boys have their child's braids cut off as a sign of coming of age and girls get their ears pierced for jewelry.

In the National Museum Fale Tau Tāoga, but also in galleries and shops, you can admire the beautiful, island-typical weaving and local art. Sunday is celebrated as a Christian day of rest, and a visit to the church is also worthwhile for non-believers just for the singing.

Secondly, the island offers other delicacies in addition to coconuts - and above all: nature like in a tropical dream. At night an incomparable starry sky sparkles, during the day the warm water lures you to swim and snorkel among coral fish. What isn't there? Traffic lights and hustle and bustle.

Their song is among the most fascinating in the animal kingdom. Their mating season dances are spectacular. This is another reason why humpback whales are among the stars of whale watching tours. In the waters of Niue, where they raise their young from summer to fall, you can get closer to them than anywhere else.

You can even swim with whales - the island is one of the few travel destinations in the world where this is legally possible. The welfare of the animals is paramount. In 2020, the island declared a good 127,000 square kilometers (equivalent to 40 percent) of its marine area as a marine reserve.

Even from land you can see the humpback whales – and hear them sing: because the sea around Niue is deep, they come very close. At observation points, their jumps can be admired from just 20 meters away. For example, at dinner on the cliff terrace of the "Matavai Resort" or, for the very relaxed, in "Lau's Getaway", from the bathtub on the balcony.

"Trevor spent his short but happy life on Niue in a puddle," wrote the BBC news channel in an obituary of the island's most famous resident - a bird. The mallard appeared there unexpectedly after a storm in 2018, probably blown over from New Zealand.

This species of wild duck, which is common in Europe, does not occur on Niue. The only one of its kind to ever webbed Niue, the drake quickly became better known than the man it was named after: New Zealand politician Trevor Mallard, whose last name is English for mallard.

The drake Trevor was probably the loneliest duck in the world. After a storm, Trevor ended up on a small island in the South Pacific, completely without any of his own kind. Firefighters and local residents took care of him from then on.

Quelle: WELT/ Sandra Saatmann

International media dubbed the soloist the loneliest duck in the world, but that wasn't entirely accurate. Residents visited the celebrity bird daily, pampering him, serving him healthy treats like peas and corn, and making sure his home didn't dry up: a puddle, the only form of inland water found on the island. The fire brigade also helped to fill them up.

A local rooster, a hen and a wecaralle (a rare flightless wild bird) became his companions. The head of the Niuean Tourism Authority said she was pleased that the international coverage put the small island on the world map.

Friends from all over the world followed Trevor on his Facebook profile, which was set up for him by the head of the chamber of commerce on the island. But in January 2019, the popular immigrant became a victim of a human-introduced pet species - after a dog attack, he died of bite injuries.

According to official figures, 24,000 Niueans do not live on the island but in New Zealand - that is 15 times as many as the only around 1,600 residents of Niue itself. Because Niueans are New Zealand citizens. After the British handed the island over to New Zealand in 1901, many islanders were disappointed by the declining standard of living. New Zealand, 2,400 kilometers away, was considered a more livable alternative.

Many families emigrated to Auckland in the 1960s, and the opening of the island's airport in 1971 accelerated the exodus. When Niue opted for self-government in association with New Zealand in 1974, more islanders emigrated because they feared (wrongly) that they would no longer have the right to live in New Zealand in the future. The number of abandoned villages grew on Niue.

Today they rely on vanilla production and fishing as sources of income - and on sustainable tourism. Perhaps it will also attract a prominent conservationist: King Charles III, the new head of state.

It is the largest land crab in the world. He weighs up to four kilos, more than some cats. The power of its claws surpasses that of a lion's bite. It's easily enough to steal and crack coconuts.

The palm thief or coconut robber is definitely the "Big One" of animal stalking on Niue. Take an uga tour (uga is the local term for palm thief) to see how the Niueans catch the terrifying giant crabs with their bare hands. The animals are considered a delicacy, which is why they are protected in some areas.

The palm thieves live up to 60 years. With their scissors they climb skillfully, shimmy for nuts, fruit, fruit and careless birds. They are more afraid of people. Anyone who dares can hold up one of the crabs.

"I am a Berliner"

What is the purpose of John F. Kennedy's famous quote from his speech in West Berlin in 1963 on an official coin of the island of Niue? In fact, it is one of a number of commemorative coins issued by the government. The motifs range from Donald Duck to Darth Vader to Godzilla. Although they are approved as a means of payment, they are not used for this - they disappear immediately into the safes of international collectors.

Bizarre, record-breaking, typical: You can find more parts of our regional geography series here.