Penalty, end of advertising... MPs attack ultra-fast fashion

Ultra-fast fashion has found detractors at the highest political levels. The phenomenon may be a hit with many consumers addicted to the low prices of clothing sold on sites like Shein and Temu, but it has become the hobby horse of Christophe Béchu, Minister of Ecological Transition, and many deputies, worried about environmental and economic damage from this fashion from Asia.

For a long time, ultra-fast fashion has attracted many associations concerned about the planet and the workers who make these clothes. This ultra-polluting fashion could soon be sanctioned for its practices.

At the beginning of February, LR MP Antoine Vermorel-Marques tabled a bill, aiming to “outmode” this disposable fashion, by establishing a bonus-malus system. But it is the text carried by Anne-Cécile Violland, Horizons MP for Haute-Savoie, which will go before the Sustainable Development Committee on Thursday, before being examined in the Assembly chamber on March 14.

It also aims to introduce a penalty of up to 10 euros per item in 2030 (up to 50% of the sale price). “This is not an anti-Shein, Temu and Primark law,” explains the MP. This overproduction of clothing, which arrives from Asia in contravention of all environmental regulations, is dramatic. There is an urgency to tackle the problem in a very concrete way.”

The lifespan of clothing has decreased by a third. “If we are particularly targeting ultra-fast fashion, it is because in addition to posing a climate problem it has serious consequences on a social and economic level,” explains Anne-Cécile Violland. Regularly blamed for imposing poor working conditions, ultra-fast fashion contributes to the downfall of many brands, unable to compete. The avalanche of bankruptcies, receiverships and social plans in recent months (Camaïeu, Burton, Pimkie, etc.) is the best proof of this. Even the Swedish giant H

Having become a juggernaut in just a few years, the Chinese Shein is reportedly considering listing in London, as part of an operation that could be one of the most important the City has ever seen. Donald Tang, executive chairman, recently met Jeremy Hunt, British Finance Minister on this subject, according to Sky News. The driving forces of ultra-fast fashion are known: a constantly renewed catalog (Shein reportedly offers more than 7,000 new references daily), which appeals to young people thanks to a extremely effective marketing and communication strategy on social networks.

It is also this mechanism that the deputies want to attack. In addition to wanting to introduce a penalty, there is talk of banning advertising for this “ephemeral” fashion and making consumers more responsible by informing them better. “The idea is to remove the masks and for no one to ignore the environmental impact of their purchases,” insists Anne-Cécile Violland. Banners could appear on sites inviting people not to overconsume, to wear their clothes and not throw them away.”

Monday morning, Christophe Béchu will bring together players in the fashion ecosystem, researchers, associations and textile manufacturers, to discuss the theme “from ultra-fast fashion to sustainable fashion”. “The problem is limited to a few platforms, which have no presence in France and whose number of references is alarming,” we insist in the minister’s office. In addition to the environmental impact (ultra-fast fashion clothing can be made from up to 95% plastic materials), there is an issue of economic sovereignty and the reconstitution of a French textile industry.

In recent years, “made in France” brands such as Le Slip français, Aigle, Saint James, etc., have emerged from the shadows. But their prices scare off a large portion of consumers. They are only waiting for one thing: to finally buy less and better.