The scents, the future is gender fluid: distinctions between man and woman, are the past. You wear what you love

"You can find there the aromas of a woman, there instead of the ones from man". A common phrase, and out of place, as the shelves divided by genre. Most of the women flower, from the bottles round, the garters of the Jean-Paul Gaultier, the names alluring. Yes the Passion of Armani, La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme, La Panthère by Cartier. Beautiful, Daisy, Sweetheart.

on The other hand, the males bottles and square-like jaws, Stronger with you freeze (Emporio Armani), Hyper Wave (Kenzo), Man in black (Bulgari), Obsession for men by Calvin Klein, or Le Mâle, always JP Gaultier. In this cultural view, if the notes of citrus have long been used for both men and women, those of wood have been marketed as "masculine". Not any more. Companies have begun to sniff out the future of the fragrances will be gender fluid. You wear what you love.

The problem is the marketing. Until some time ago, for the strategists in the style of Mad Men have used the stereotypes of the society to earn billion in the perfume industry. But now things are changing, and brands such as Byredo, Frederic Malle, Diptyque and Escentric Molecules are driving a revolution in the nose. According to Mintel, a market research company private with the London office, if in 2010 the launches of fragrances for gender-neutral accounted for 17% of the market, in 2018, the percentage increased to 51%.

In 2019 were just the ideas unconventional to be at the center of major campaigns, launch of fragrances such as Memoire d'une Odeur Gucci perfume gender fluid, or gender, nor time, signed by creative director Alessandro Michele , and from maître parfumeur Alberto Morillas . As a testimonial, the singer-songwriter Harry Styles , an ardent supporter of the community, the Lgbti, and which is often seen flying the rainbow flag on stage.

The revenge is taken Calvin Klein , throwing the last month, Everyone, to repeat the concept already tried in 1994, CK One first success in the world of perfume without gender then launched for the generation X. the parents of The millennials.

In the air there is also the line of 11 scents of Celine. It is the first project of H edi Slimane , a French designer, the former creative director of Saint Laurent, and current creative director of Celine. A few years ago, in 2006, maverick perfumer Geza Schoen he created Escentric Molecules, which is today one of the scents most sold in absolute. Initially thought that it would attract only "artists and monsters". He was wrong. The brand, with its revolutionary concept, has won all over the world.

Many people who wear it are not able to smell, at least not always, because the scent changes and works with the receptors in the olfactory system. Then, his had been a challenge: "women tend to follow the teachings of the mothers and most of the men wearing what is popular. The people were bored. It was time to break with the traditional view," he told in an interview to the Guardian.

Also Ben Gorham of Byredo he repeated: "You are wearing a scent that you love, and people are starting to realize that the specification of the genus comes from marketing." "For me," he continued, "the fragrance of the gender is as absurd as the specific food for that."

If there are no codes the olfactory genre, the marketing of the products through the binary stereotyped has been until now an effective strategy. According to Emmanuelle Moeglin , founder of the Experimental Perfume Club: "When the perfume has hints of marketing, commercials, photo, visual input, and the men who visit my laboratory does not deprive you of the use of ingredients traditionally 'feminine' such as the rose and the jasmine". A perfume has to evoke memories, sensations. Down from the shelves, it can combine, leaving a trail of persistent and invisible trust.

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