In autumn there is pork with wine in South Tyrol

Christian Pinggera, in a blue apron and slouch hat, looks skyward: around a hundred smoked hams, “Hammen” as they say in South Tyrol, hang from the ceiling in an old stone cellar like grapes. He stretches and pulls a nice specimen off the perch. "The meat is a deep dark red, the fat is light pink and firm, so you can carve it with a nail - that's how good bacon should be," explains the 53-year-old South Tyrolean farmer, who is also the innkeeper at the "Schnalshuberhof".

He drags a ham weighing almost five kilograms over the old cobblestones to the inn. Because without bacon there is no Törggelen in South Tyrol: this highlight of alpine farmer's cuisine combines the tradition of tasting young wine with that of slaughtering pigs before the onset of winter. And with the enjoyment of chestnuts, since both fall in the time of the chestnut harvest.

After the grape harvest, usually from the end of September to mid-November, people tamper with them everywhere in Alto Adige's wine regions. A culinary journey is particularly beautiful in October, when the vineyards and chestnut groves glow with autumn colours. Ideally, one explores the sunny area in and around Algund, where there are not only the "Schnalshuberhof" but also other good Törggelen addresses with homemade bacon, roasted chestnuts and wine bar (see below).

The name comes from Torggel, the press that was once used to press the grapes. Originally, the Törggelen was the custom of the innkeepers to taste the new wine at the winegrowers in late autumn and to check the quality. Later, the fermenting grape must - here called sweet - was also served to guests in so-called Buschenschanken, and food was served with it. Cheating is always accompanied by the sweetheart, from the late afternoon or in the evening, preferably in good company.

Locals and visitors alike are drawn to the farmers on the farms - and to the wine taverns that offer home-made wine. The name comes from the "Buschen", the bouquet of green branches attached above the entrance gate, which indicates that the restaurant is open. The "Schnalshuberhof" and its Buschenschank are part of the "Törggelen am Ursprung" initiative, whose members only serve homemade dishes, South Tyrolean chestnuts and wine from their own vineyards.

A narrow road winds its way up from Algund through lush vineyards and orchards – or you can hike along the Algunder Waalweg. Waale is the name of the irrigation ditches, which are artfully laid out with a slight gradient and were dug by farmers centuries ago to supply the adjacent orchards and vineyards with water.

Where the road ends, surrounded by vineyards and walnut trees, stands a magnificent house. Over 700 years old, residential and inn at the same time and owned by the Pinggera family since 1530. In the courtyard a granite basin, above a wooden construction - an ancient Torggel, with which wine was once pressed here.

In the wine cellar next door, this is now automatic. Christian Pinggera presses eight different wines there, around 12,000 liters a year. In order to literally sweeten the Corona crisis, when the hospitality of guests had to be stopped for a long time last year, he created a lovely wine called Pandevino.

The "Schnalshuberhof" includes four hectares of land, cultivated according to organic guidelines. On one half there is wine, on the other potatoes, vegetables, fruit, rye and buckwheat thrive. Bread, schnapps, juice, dried fruit, jam, vinegar and other ingredients for the dishes in the inn are made from it.

Pinggera is proud of its spicy smoked bacon: "It's not something you buy in the supermarket." According to statistics, almost two and a half million hams are produced in South Tyrol every year - the province doesn't have that many pigs to be able to produce the quantities that sold as South Tyrolean bacon. A large part of the pork legs processed here comes from other countries or regions.

But Pinggera knows where his meat comes from. From South Tyrolean mountain farmers with only a few pigs, some of whom still slaughter them on their own farm or in a small butcher's shop in the vicinity. Short transport routes are important to the "Schnalshuberhof" host. This saves the animals stress. And that, he says, has a negative effect on the taste of the meat.

Up to 20 pork halves end up on the farm every year, the recipes for bacon and sausages come from the great-grandmother. The meat is only mildly smoked; seasoned with pepper, salt, fresh juniper and bay leaves. Farmer Pinggera hangs the pieces of meat up “as the pig stands, i.e. with the fat side down, exactly the other way around, as it is usually done”. The bacon stays in the maturing cellar for six months or longer.

Pinggera sits almost reverently in the old tavern, a piece of smoked ham on a wooden board in front of her. He points to the shiny fat and slices it clean from the rind. He uses the knife again: "Now you'll hear what a good piece of bacon sounds like."

Solemn silence in the room, only the old grandfather clock is ticking, the crucifix in the corner. "Krkr" makes the knife when cutting the fat mass. Pinggera cuts an apple into slices and recommends eating both together: "The acidity of the apple is like a sorbet that cleanses the palate and balances the fat in the bacon." He laughs: "That's our peasant cuisine."

The works of art of the grandfather, who was not only a farmer but also a painter, hang on the smoke-blackened walls. The father also earned an extra income for farming by painting and making music. Pinggera is happy that money was always tight in the family and that the old house and its inventory have been preserved. Two of the rooms are under monument protection. One has paneling from 1642, the other shows daily newspapers from 1871 pasted under the plaster.

Pinggera has many fans and friends, Italians, Germans, Swiss, many have become regulars over the years. The "Schnalshuberhof" landlord has always remained cordial and down-to-earth, a gifted storyteller and entertainer, a farmer and innkeeper as well as a hunter and music lover.

As drum major of the Algunder music band, he leads them in parades and processions. At the same time he is a big fan of Richard Wagner, whom he prefers to hear while distilling schnapps and at the Bayreuth Festival.

Magazines and books are stacked on a shelf on the wall, in which the man and his food are highly praised. In the new Michelin Guide 2021, the "Schnalshuberhof" is again represented as a culinary tip ("good quality cuisine, a pleasure!").

You literally eat what's on the table, as there isn't a fixed menu. never mind Because everything on the Törggelen menu tastes good: First, barley soup with aniseed-spiced Schüttelbrot. Then dumplings with lots of butter, then various dumplings made of bread, with eggs and beetroot, with cheese and buckwheat.

Next course: fresh sausages with cabbage and bacon dumplings. For dessert, donuts and "Keschtn" (roasted chestnuts). In addition to Sußer, "Alm-Schampanier" is also served. It turns out to be well water bottled at the farm, carbonated, for 2.50 euros per bottle. So he's also good at business, the Pinggera.

"Schnalshuberhof", open Thursday to Sunday from 6 p.m., only by reservation. The farm is in the district of Oberplars above Algund, not far from Meran. You can eat Törggelen "until Kathrein" on November 25th, roasted chestnuts are available "until Martini" on November 11th, "Schweinernes" until spring, facebook.com/schnalshuber. More information about the region: algund.info; suedtirol.info

"Hofstätterhof": The best South Tyrolean chestnuts are said to be around Naraun, south of Meran. The inn with Buschenschank, which is located directly in the Tisner low mountain range at 800 meters, has its own chestnut forest with 400-year-old trees. The chestnuts are still traditionally cooked over an open fire, a portion with butter costs 5.50 euros. From the end of September to the beginning of November, the Törggelen menu is also served: barley soup, pork roast, house sausage, black pudding, bacon dumplings and sauerkraut, and homemade donuts with a sweet chestnut filling for dessert. (hofstaetterhof.it)

"Oberlechner" inn: The small inn (five rooms, one holiday apartment) with panoramic views can be reached from Algund up to Vellau by chairlift or city bus. The cuisine is top-notch, a mix of creative and down-to-earth. The inn is very popular with the locals, so make sure to book in advance (closed on Wednesdays). Peter Gamper is a culinary artist without airs and graces, almost shy. Tip from a regular guest: "Don't order from the menu, but state the number of courses and say: 'Please do it.'" The classic Törggelen menu is only available for groups from the end of October to mid-November, otherwise the cuisine is inspired by Törggelen highly recommended, for example the chestnut cream soup or the risotto with nuts and chestnuts. (gasthofoberlechner.com)

Konditorei "Überbacher": The café in the center of Algund is well-known for its homemade delicacies made from chestnuts, which are collected from the surrounding mountains in autumn. Highly recommended: chestnut cake, chestnut ice cream and especially the chestnut hearts with chocolate icing. A coffee specialty from our own roastery tastes good with it. Monday rest day. (cafe-ueberbacher.com)

Hotel "Wiesenhof": The four-star hotel with wellness area is conveniently located on the road from Meran to Algund with good bus connections and is still quiet. In the midst of our own apple orchards you can enjoy the view of the mountains. The hotel is run - upscale and yet rustic - by the friendly sisters Gabriele and Gerti Schrötter. Once a week there is a gourmet seminar on cheese, wine or bacon, Tuesdays is a hiking day with boss Gerti with free loan of rucksacks and hiking sticks. Between October 9th and 23rd, the autumn offer "Traditional Törggelenzeit" lures: seven nights with half board from 777 euros per person, including a Törggelen evening with fresh sweets and dishes from master chef Klaus Fedrigotti, who has been cooking at the "Wiesenhof" for over 20 years swings. (wiesenhof.com)

Participation in the trip was supported by the Algund Tourist Association. You can find our standards of transparency and journalistic independence at axelspringer.de/independence.

Twelve-year-old Alessandro is hiking with his family in South Tyrol. Suddenly a bear appears behind him. Instead of running away, the boy does everything right. The father filmed the scene.

Source: WELT/Nicole Fuchs-Wiecha

This article was first published in October 2021.