Hiking and swimming in Cyprus' wild west

When it comes to Cyprus, many holidaymakers first think of the bustling port city of Limassol, the party stronghold of Agia Napa or the hotel stronghold of Larnaka. There is the wonderful, little-known Akamas Peninsula. It is located in the extreme west of Cyprus, is about 230 square kilometers in size, offers untouched nature, all kinds of birds and plants and Greek mythology in abundance.

The number of tourists is also manageable, which is mainly due to the fact that the peninsula is predominantly a nature reserve, which makes it impossible to build hotel complexes. There are only a few notable accommodations here, with the most beautiful, the five-star house "Anassa", also being in the best location: right on the sandy beach and in the immediate vicinity of the protected area. The next larger town is the town of Polis Chrysochous, six kilometers away, with a good 2000 inhabitants.

If you drive along the picturesque coastal road, the nature reserve can be reached in just five minutes. Just a little further are the Baths of Aphrodite - the freshwater grotto is a very popular destination among Cyprus visitors. The foam-born daughter, surrounded by legends and by far the country's best-known daughter, is said to have met her lover Adonis there, which is a thoroughly interesting episode in the soap opera of the Greek world of gods.

But Manuel Ioannou moves on. The guide wants to go to Avakas Gorge, the most spectacular sight that the Akamas Peninsula has to offer. In order to adequately explore the gorge as part of a hike, Ioannou came up with a route that takes four hours.

It first leads above the gorge on a wild goat path from one end to the other, from where it then goes back to the starting point within the gorge. So once in a circle, so to speak, first up lengthwise, then down through back again.

When the sun is in the ideal position, rays fall directly into the gorge and set the green of the plants apart from the gray rock. The structures of the rock walls look like reliefs. And the light is reflected in the small stream that meanders around the boulders, which gives the narrow gorge with its sometimes more than 30 meters vertical walls a completely unreal aura. That lifts the spirits significantly when things get difficult on the nearly eleven-kilometer route.

When things go over hill and dale, a certain level of fitness can't hurt. "The best weather for active holidays is here from October to December," says Ioannou about the ideal travel time. "Then it's not as hot as in midsummer, but you can still swim." Plenty of sun, even in November the thermometer reliably climbs to over 20 degrees during the day.

But spring and early summer, when the island is in bloom, are also recommended. "The outside temperature during this time in the west of the island reaches between 25 and 30 degrees during the day, and the water is already warm enough." now and then lazily rolling off the beach lounger into the sea.”

Ioannou, a young German-Cypriot, and his agency have specialized primarily in German-speaking visitors, although local opinion is that there could be a little more. Cyprus, the easternmost and third largest Mediterranean island after Sicily and Sardinia, has recently been somewhat forgotten in German travel plans. Decades ago, they had traveled in droves and were a key driver of tourism, only to then look elsewhere.

Because a beach holiday in Cyprus can be wonderfully combined with visits to orthodox churches and monasteries, it was mainly guests from Russia who came recently. However, the Russian war of aggression in Ukraine meant that only a fraction of the 800,000 Russians expected for 2022 came to the island. In second place are the British, probably from old ties - Cyprus was a British crown colony until 1960. They are closely followed by the Israelis, who are essentially neighbors. Tel Aviv is just over an hour's flight away.

The majority of tourists head for the south of the island, along the coast from Paphos to Larnaka to the east. The area from Polis to Paphos, which forms the wild west of the island, is still to be discovered.

For Germans, it should be an interesting starting point that Cyprus is a divided nation. After the Turkish army invaded the north of the island, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus seceded in 1974 - a country that is only recognized by Turkey but does not officially exist for the rest of the world. But because it is there, a border with a generous buffer zone separates the north from the south, it runs right through the capital Nicosia (Turkish: Lefkosa), which is almost as divided as Berlin once was.

But Nicosia is far from the west of the island, which does not mean that the division is not felt there. Driving across the Akamas Peninsula, one will see abandoned houses once inhabited by Muslim Cypriots who fled to the Turkish part of the island. And as far as gastronomy is concerned, Turkish coffee is demonstratively offered as Cypriot coffee in the south - albeit with a clear smile. Because everyone knows how silly that actually is.

The traces of much older history are more visible in the west, and you literally stand on them most of the time. All kinds of valuable artefacts are shown in the local history museum of Polis Chrysochous. They document the influence of the cultures that have visited or colonized Cyprus over the millennia.

But the real treasures are believed to be exactly where they cannot be found so easily – under the city itself ' advises Manuel Ioannou. You would always find something.

Unfortunately, if the find arouses interest in the archaeological office, the land will not be allowed to be purchased. Anyone who has already bought and later finds something valuable in the ground is unlucky and has to return the land: "You will then be compensated, but usually not with the price you paid," explains Manuel Ioannou.

This rule of thumb applies all the way down the coast to Paphos, a modern town. Nearby you can visit the Sanctuary of Aphrodite in Old Paphos, while there are impressive Roman mosaics in New Paphos. The history of New Paphos dates back to the fourth century BC.

Old Paphos is another eight centuries older. Its origins date back to the time of the Trojan War, if it even existed and isn't just a mythical tale. Back then, soldiers who had fought in the Trojan War are said to have gotten lost at sea and then settled on Cyprus – which would at least explain how the Hellenic culture came to the island.

It is also not clear to this day whether the Hellenes brought the wine with them. What is certain is that the island is considered to be the oldest wine-growing region in the Mediterranean, with traces dating back almost 6000 years. However, up until 20 or 30 years ago, Cypriot wine did not enjoy a particularly good reputation. Winemakers had long focused on cheap wine production for the Eastern Bloc and grape juice for the British.

But now more than 50 wine cellars are working to save the honor of the local wine. They rely on local grape varieties such as Xynisteri or Morokanella. Many cellars offer wine tastings by prior arrangement. There, visitors will also learn that the lockdown of 2020 has helped the Cypriot rosé to take a leap in quality. As the? There were fewer tourists on the island, which is why the new rosé was not drunk as usual. So you let it sit for a year, and lo and behold: it matured – and today it tastes better than ever.

Travelers to Cyprus should definitely try mezze. The oriental tradition of serving an endless succession of delicacies in bowls and small plates was inherited by the Cypriots from Middle Eastern peoples, Persians and Ottomans, who have visited and ruled the island over the millennia.

Mezze is available in the order variants meat or fish: from octopus in red wine to snails in tomato sauce to pork brawn and moussaka, everything is available. And there is a rule of thumb: If the waiter asks whether you would prefer the small or the large mezze bar, the answer should always be that the small one will do. Then more than a dozen dishes are brought up, guaranteed to be more than enough.

The British have also made their contribution to Cyprus' culinary heritage - and brought the island in colonial times the brandy sour, a long drink made with local brandy, freshly squeezed lemons and soda, served with ice cubes. If the waiter asks about the size, the reverse rule of thumb applies: more is more.

Arrival: With Lufthansa, for example, there are direct flights from Munich and Frankfurt to Paphos, Ryanair flies directly there twice a week from Berlin, Cologne/Bonn and Memmingen.

Accommodation: The "Hotel Elysium Beach" in Paphos, for example, can be booked for eight nights for two people in November from 1306 euros (via tui.com). The Thanos Hotel "Almyra" is on the harbor promenade of Paphos, a five-star hotel - Bauhaus on the outside and Art Nouveau on the inside, double rooms from 172 euros per night including breakfast (almyra.com). The five-star hotel "Anassa", which belongs to the same group, is located in the municipality of Latchi on a secluded beach. Each room has a sea view and costs in the autumn season for two people per night from 480 euros including breakfast (anassa.com). Halfway between Latchi and Paphos, “Cap St Georges” recently opened in Pegeia. Double rooms are available from 226 euros per night including breakfast (capstgeorges.com). Not far from Paphos in Chloraka is the eight villa complex "Meltemi Villas". Each of them has three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a kitchen, sea views and a private pool. The minimum stay is six nights and costs 190 euros per night (meltemivillas.com). Multi-day hiking tours across the Akamas Peninsula can also be booked. Eight days with accommodation, breakfast, transfers and hiking maps then cost from 825 euros per person, thenaturaladventure.com.

Guided tours: If you want to hike across the Akamas Peninsula, you can let the German-Cypriot Manuel Ioannou look after you (wandernaufzypern.de). The German-speaking Andreas Tsokkalides also offers guided tours (ecotouradventures.com.cy).

For more info: visitcyprus.com

Participation in the trip was supported by Thanoshotels.com. You can find our standards of transparency and journalistic independence at axelspringer.com/de/Werte/downloads.