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The Sparrow: well cooked and lättgillat at Mathias Dahlgren's new French bistro

Bistrotraditionen has made a great comeback in the tavern-Stockholm, sweden during the last decade. Now we also have our one and only Bocuse d'or winner, Mathi

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The Sparrow: well cooked and lättgillat at Mathias Dahlgren's new French bistro

Bistrotraditionen has made a great comeback in the tavern-Stockholm, sweden during the last decade. Now we also have our one and only Bocuse d'or winner, Mathias Dahlgren, latched on the French wave. The celebrity chef has temporarily left the mother ship at the Grand Hôtel in Stockholm, together with the parhästen Staffan Naess launch Sparrow Bistro & Wine bar in the neighborhood of the Sparrow at the Stureplan. Also here is the wallenberg sphere that owns and Dahlgren/Naess to create.

Sparrow Bistro & Wine bar is a small and stylish fyndhörna for food and wine lovers who want to avoid the influerare and the most trend-conscious instagrammarna. The address is discreet, A mode without either transparency or a view – perfect to meet incognito, both for the purpose of secret love and secrets. On the menu are classics such as tartar of veal and primörsparris with hollandaise sauce. Because everything is perfectly prepared and doesn't offer any breathtaking surprises steals the food is not the focus from the society.

The stylish windowless premises is located a bit out in the house. This descends not to the entrance like in the old garage where one of Dahlgren's former taverns were housed, Bon Lloc at Jarlaplan, but the bar placement is the same – in the street.

Swedish gambas, sek 250. Photo: Krogkommissionen

The wine bar is literally a gateway to the Bistro. Here, talk to the wine list, mostly French. In the bar you can get upwards of 20 wines by the glass. If Matbaren at the Grand Hôtel has an emphasis on eco - and natural wines go Sparrow in a broader, more classical style. It is generally well-chosen bottles, but perhaps not for those who are looking for new surprises and challenges.

The kassastinna the connoisseur can also order in mature bottles from Burgundy and Bordeaux, which are derived from the Grand Hôtel's wine cellar. During Dahlgren's Spanish period, it was vällagrad pata negra and tapas that was on the Sparrow composed barsnacksen of hors d'oevre.

after the ”easy and natural”, Dahlgren, Staffan Naess as drillats on the food bar and Rutabaga. Himself he keeps in the background, albeit with the fingers in the pie as well. Judging by the outcome is the collaboration good. The staff in the dining room is just as discreet, efficient and sociable as the guest wants. Instead of waving the little finger above the plate, the radio-track the into the atmosphere, the level of knowledge and informationstörst. The resulting work is a natural talent from the Sunne.

We start with a glass of well-Pouilly-Fuissé (190 sek), a brilliant combination with the new white asparagus from the Netherlands, thick, dandruff, and with a slight sweetness. Thanks to the warm plate you can enjoy for a really long time by the lovely hollandaisen, topped with corn -. The asparagus is included in a three course meal (495 sek), where the lamb is the main course of the day and dessert of crème brûlée.

the Lamb is filled with herbs and garlic and must be cooked sousvide for being so juicy and rosarött and at the same time have a really good browned. Perfect gravy, crispy fried potatoes and oven baked cherry tomatoes are the accessories.

Tartar of veal, 215 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

Tartar (215 sek) is scratched veal, referred to in the art, mixed with capers, very finely chopped mild onion, herbs and butter-fried breadcrumbs – and easy well dressed fresh frissésallad. Swedish prawns (250$) is the king prawns that have been grown under safe and environmentally friendly forms in Lysekil. The fame of the excellence of our raw materials has apparently spread, we have previously only eaten the shrimp raw, from the hand of one of the country's most advanced sushikockar. On the Sparrow is fried with chili, garlic and lemon.

with delicately fried pieces of seafood where there is a little sweetish krabbköttet in all its simplicity, intermingled superbly with the nötigt butter and acid from the lemon. An expensive appetizer that is worth every penny. The right is not only a delicacy, but also healing for the soul. The exact opposite of the disastrous serving of the same raw material as KK recently happened a stone's throw away.

Some of the disruptive elements of the vegetables are not included in this right, which have already been stamgästernas favorite.

Pepparstekt flank steak (285 kr) is a generously-sized serving with trancherat beef of good quality, which will in the company of rich cream sauce and exemplary fries. A few disruptive elements of vegetables are not included in this right, which have already been stamgästernas favorite. With a glass of bordeauxvinet Château L'isle fort, this is a cheap ticket to Paris.

the Chicken (295 sek), juicy bird elegantly flavored with mushrooms and black truffles. It snålas not with the cream and butter in this honeyed and simple correct that with their gentle tones are ridiculously good and at the same time a bit luxurious.

Chokladtarte with raspberries, 150 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

" It has space for a dessert after this, energy intake, can be an advantage to choose the house chokladtarte (150 sek), nice garnished with fresh raspberries and flanked by a ball of ice cream and chopped pistachios. Simple, well made and satisfying – a dessert that is also perfect to split it in two. Both the tarte tatin (125 sek) and the crème brûlée is correct but a bit too sweet, though it can be a matter of taste.

After a completely kockliv with finkrogsambitioner and the role of the predecessor, it is fully understandable if Mathias Dahlgren longing to give the audience the well-prepared and well-liked bistro. Together with the excellent service and welcoming environment, it is about what is needed to create a restaurant that you want to come back to. It need not be harder than that.

Read more of Krogkommissionens tests

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