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Klassikerduellen: PA & Co meets Rolf's kitchen

Where should you start? In a decadent Nairobi, where the mythologized överklassplayboyen and globetrottern PA von Rosen daily played away krogkassan at the casino? On Dalarö where Brommabröderna Sturén served limpmackor with smoked eel, egg yolk and whitefish roe on Mysingens restaurant? Or in the 70 talskrogarna Alexandras, Victoria, the Basement of Diana, where they worked in the cold-buffet?

a hole in the wall on Riddargatan where sagde von Rosen bought in the late 70's and worked as stand social hub. When grannlokalen annexed were PA & Co. quickly the hottest kroghänget in Stockholm.

It has drained a lot of water under the bridge since then. Fully understandable to the legendary Östermalmskrogen now have more roots than crown. The place is dated and nersuttet on a musealt wise but attracts in spite of that – or precisely because – their Stockholmspublik. A weeknight in may, it is fully at the tables even before the clock 18.

Rårakor, 215 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

Some restaurants have the ability to tie a part of their guests so tightly into themselves that they may find it difficult to extricate itself and move on in life. PA belongs definitely to the category. It could be his tavern - and literary history notes the prominent PA-personalities Carina Rydberg, whose book, ”The highest caste” was to a large part of these premises. This has a couple of generations of most ad guys, actors and writers, associated, created, intrigerat, were beaten and drugged for four decades. Sometimes even comforted itself with generous portions of the most tasty dishes.

In the best case, keep the menu on the griffeltavlan what it promises, in the worst case, you pay 300 for filling skolköksmat.

Råraka (215 sek), which always has served on the PA, has either been lying to himself after frying or mikrats. Then, it helps little accessories, caviar, chopped onions and sour cream is good and generously assigned.

White asparagus, 185 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

White asparagus (185 kr) invites on nicely chewy and the butter is fun, flavored with marigolds and hazelnuts, but would have needed a bit more saltiness. Blackened Korean steak tartare (155 kr) feels a bit apart here, but is better than expected: Meat, quail eggs and enough hot kimchi that is served in lettuce leaves. The inspiration for the steak (375 usd) is south american, with chipotlesalsa, corn, habila sötpotatispommes and hearty gravy. A substantial piece of meat of the best quality which unfortunately is not supplied with the desired stekgrad.

Cod (365 sek) is sadly a bit överstekt, but the right is well-composed with skummig beurre blanc, grated truffle and a hearty slice of foie gras.

Biff Rydberg, 345 kronor. Photo: Krogkommissionen

Biff Rydberg (345 sek) is a överprisad PA classics that the kitchen ought to deal with with respect. We get a plate of beef of good quality, however, unevenly fried, and diced fried potatoes that taste used cooking oil, brown on the outside and mushy inside. Senapssåsen has the same consistency as lemon curd, and is about as sweet, just less appetizing to the color.

Gino proper is even worse. Gino is strawberries, kiwi and banana in pieces under a blanket of grated white chocolate, browned in a salamander or oven with the grill on and open the door. This is that the chocolate should be warm and the fruit intact. In PA is it wet and warm.

Marängsvissen (95 sek) is childish and fussy with generous amounts of cream, ice cream, meringues and chocolate sauce – but without the track.

Marängsviss, 95 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

When it comes to the wine cellar keeps the PA & Co. in a class, but in a time where many restaurants in Stockholm serving sophisticated cuisine in the international top class, is PA & Co akterseglad. The younger the audience, fascinated, probably, also of the air by spritromantik and machorock that is in the walls. Neither of the staff on at least said personal attitude to the guests. For those who belong to the inner circle of the PA – and still have health – are their cares, surely a lifeline.

● ● ●

Rolf's apartment on Tegnérgatan 41. Photo: Lisa Mattisson

In the 80's krogvärld were PA & Co. a part of the revolt, where young restaurateurs took command – cooked his favorite foods, played his favorite music and entertained their friends. Another rebel from the same era is Rolf's kitchen founded by chef Rolf Nilsson. The year was 1989 – the berlin Wall fell, Kerstin Ekman left the Swedish Academy in connection with the Rushdieaffären, Roxette topped the Billboard charts with ”The look” and the tv series ”The Simpsons” premiered in the united states.

brought the interior just as much interest as the food. Behind the groundbreaking design was the now-legendary architect Jonas Bohlin, who then decorated the Sturehof, Riche, Teatergrillen, Taverna Brillo, Luzette and La Colline.

White asparagus, 195 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

A distinctive style with sustainable, natural materials that have survived decades of trendängsliga parcels where kroglokaler blown out in wholesale and retail. Today, decoration is preserved in the original and the famous allmogeblåa the chairs hanging on the wall is still in place.

the kitchen was built in the middle of the room was the founder Rolf Nilsson's credit, he wanted to have contact with the guests, not sweating in the seat. Around the turn of the millennium, jumped Klas Ljungquist of the Trade – just a stone's throw from the pub – to be a waiter and later a restaurant manager. He picked up the family and the national team chef, Johan Jureskog.

, very Lou Reed and Bruce Springsteen. It still breathes curiosity and youthful enthusiasm, and there is no doubt that krögarna hanging with his time. The staff have the skills that today's audience requires both of the kitchen and of the dining room. The attention to detail is noticeable, for example, in the brödserveringen; they are always freshly baked, crispy with tough insides and strung on a stick.

Hamachi, 175 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

A handful of classics constitutes the epicenter but is by no means the only reason to dine here. The springy, tender white asparagus (195 sek) gets a boost of tangy hollandaise and juicy hot smoked salmon with just the right saltiness. Toasted sourdough bread with emmental, grishaka and beurre blanc ($165) is also an excellent introduction for the svultne even if the most fläskentusiastiska the commissioner want a sturdier piece of piglet.

the Hamachi (175 sek) is a wreath of sashimi of yellowtail (that belongs to the family taggmakrillfiskar) on a green meadow of spring onion, cucumber, green pepper, coriander and black sesame seeds. A majobaserad sauce and a crispy wonton chips completes the fresh right.

Rödvinsbrässerad oxkind (265 usd) with a reduction that matches the Darth Vader costume and tryffeldoftande potato puree, thirty years on the back of the neck. Sure keep it, but in comparison, in lammnacken (595 sek for two) feels oxkinden still a little dated.

Rödvinsbräserad oxkind, 265 kronor. Photo: Krogkommissionen

the Neck is an example of how Rolf's kitchen is living with his time, and at the same time hold on to their identity. The accessory is a plate of baked, mashed eggplant, chèvre and cilantro – sour and fresh to the flavorful lamb meat that melts in your mouth. We fill one of the warm, freshly baked small tunnbröden with the ”pulled lamb” and the mess and eat like fingermat. The heaven and the pancake, so good!

the Lamb is matched excellent with an elegant and spicy australian pinot noir (185 kr) or a nebbiolo 2017 Azelia (135 sek) for those who prefer a wine with more tannins.

can jump over the crepe (125 sek), which feels forgotten, pious and uninteresting. Chocolate and lakritsterrin (125 sek) with rasberry ice cream and chocolate and freeze-dried hallonsplitter is an absolutely gorgeous, compact smakbomb which unfortunately disappeared from the menu, then KK's visit.

Chocolate and lakritsterrin, 125 b.c. Photo: Krogkommissionen

the Balmy Madeleinekakor with kolagrädde (165 sek/ 12 st) is the choice morsels with sweet notes of vanilla and lemon that is enough for two.

It is hardly a coincidence that many asian food bloggers find to Tegnérgatan 41 but hardly to the Riddargatan 8. Despite a svajigare kitchen than His is PA & Co is nevertheless worth a visit, for its indiskreta charm and key role in the Stockholm kroghistoria.

Read the previous klassikerdueller: the Prince meets Mäster Anders and the Den Gyldene Freden meets Konstnärsbaren, Teatergrillen meets the opera bar and Krogkommissionen test the classic christmas dinner.

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