The German city of Wiesbaden every year, the centre for the presentation of the new vintages of the best German wines. An annual event, which provides a fine opportunity to assess the vintage and determine where in the country the best wines come from. This year it was the year 2018 for the white wines and 2017 for the red.
Until 2003, had the wines on the pinot noir only, called spätburgunder in Germany, which can still be seen written on a number of the wines. And the grape is on rapid intervention and now represents almost 12% of all fields in Germany, covering nearly 12,000 hectares.
2017 was a very challenging year in Germany. A mild winter was followed by a warm, early spring, where knopskydningen happened early in april, 3-4 weeks before normal. This is generally not a problem, but when there came a frost at the end of april, this was critical for many manufacturers. May and June were dry and hot months, where in particular the young vines needed irrigation. July was more rainy than usual, which meant problems with diseases in the fields. Normally you can spray against the council, but since it rained often, this was problematic in some places. Late summer was warm with rain in between, so water shortages were not a problem. But there are more storms with hail, which caused problems in some areas. The harvest was very early and started already in august in several places. The majority of harvested therefore nicely ripe grapes, though the quantity was somewhat less than the average. Total was about 18% less volume than normal. But it varies widely from region to region, which meant that in Baden is about 10% less. Choice of harvest time from vingårdenes page, however there seems to be vital, and it is felt clearly on the acid in a number of the wines. A class can therefore be classified as a nice vintage, not among the best but above average.
After having tasted approximately 80 wines to the conclusion that the pinot noir in 2017 is a neat elegant, the vintage with the not so robust wines with a high acid. And where the terroir characteristics are allowed to unfold in the wines.
Here is a review of the most important German pinot noir areas:
Ahr is a small area of Germany's smallest and also the northernmost German area, where are produced red wines. Ahr is a valley with steep slopes, where the soil is slate, and where work in the field in several places requires that you have sikkerhedsreb, for here are so steep, that it requires training to succeed. And you understand it better, when you stand at the foot of the fields and looking up at the steep fields, where more than 70% of them have a slope of over 30%! And it is precisely this inclination, which is one of the secrets behind the great wines. The wines and get an exceptionally good angle on the sun, which means that they will be exposed longer than normal for light and sun. The downside is of course that it requires large resources, and credited locally with having to use the $ 1,500 to 2,400 hours of work per. acres— four times more than normal. Only 25 km long, the valley, and it starts in 170 meters height and falls to 84 metres. Today, there are planted 559 hectares with wine, of which pinot noir represents 63%. The entire area is equivalent to two times the Château Margaux, so it is an area that is manageable. The wines were truly stunning and not with the large variety. VDP producers are few and doing all the fine wines. The best producers were, not surprisingly, Meyer-Näkel, Adeneuer, and the Jean Stodden. In particular, Sonnenberg (94) and Kräuterberg (93) from Meyer-Näkel, Gärkammer (93) and Rosentahl (93) from Adeneuer and Herrenberg (92) from Stodden. The wine was spicy with a nice structure and soft tannins. More slender and elegant than the later years, which certainly does not make the wine worse.
the Wines from the Rheingau is considered generally among the finest in Germany. It is the town of Assmannshausen, which is the centre of pinot noir. 2017 was a disappointing year with quite a few wines presented; and no one who impressed.
One of the major pinot noir regions in Germany with more than 1,300 acres planted. The wines were nice in the structure, however, without the depth you find in some of the other areas. No wines stood out in particular; but the wines from the Battenfeld Spanier and Keller was the most interesting— with Keller Bürgel (91) as the best.
One of the hotter areas in Germany, which is often seen in the wines, which are more robust and alkoholtunge. 2017 was a critical year and not many presented their wines in years. And the wines that were presented, was not worth writing about. However, they released several of their 2016 and 2015-wines of the year. Many very nice wines, but the excessive use of the platter and hence the dry wines were a little dull trend. The best wines came from the Snap and Philipp Kuhn. Especially Knipsers Mandelpfad 2015 (92) and Philip Kuhns Kirchgarten 2016 (91) were beautiful.
Franconia is especially known for its small fat bottles and its müller-thurgau and silvaner wines. But there is also produced pinot noir. Quite nice and rich wines, and the majority with a splendid structure. Rudolf Fürst is the king, and his wines are impressive, especially the Schlossberg (94) and Centgrafenberg (93) was impressive good.
It was a mixed field from Württemberg. General was bundniveauet higher than in the past with many straightforward and nice wines. And since the prices are lower here, you can where to find some good purchases from Württemberg. The best wine was Dautel Schupen (89).
Baden is Germany's southernmost area and thus also the warmest. Pinot noir is therefore a popular grape here, and the wines are also typically warmer in the term and very aromatic. I found that the level was very variable in 2017. Generally more slender and syrerige wines than in the 2016 and 2015. The balance of the dish is vital, and for many it was the not there. Bernhard Huber took the lead with virtually all of its wines — the best were the Schlossberg (94) with the Bienenberg Wildenstein (93) and the Bienenberg (92) right after. But also Dr. Heger with its Schlossberg (93), and Franz Keller Schlossberg (93) was extremely nice wines.
10 of the best German spätburgunder wines
Sigurd Müller Wine | ca. 600 kr.
Spicy in scent. Neat, easy urtet scent, fresh with tobacco, pepper and vanilla in the taste. Well balanced with a long spicy finish.
Unknown | ca. $ 500.
Nice hindbærnæse. Lots of red berry, flint, spices and vanilla. Superbly made with a long end.
Kath wine imports | 390 kr.
Beautiful, intense nose of red berries. Mineral with strawberries, red currants, herbs and vanilla in the taste. Nice, long finish.
Rudolf Fürst Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg 2017, Franconia. 93
Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Bienenberg Wildenstein 2017, Baden. 93
Dr. Heger Spätburgunder Schlossberg 2017, Baden. 93
Franz Keller Spätburgunder Schlossberg 2017, Baden. 93
J. J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder Rosenthal 2017, Ahr. 93
Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder Kräuterberg 2017, Ahr. 93
J. J. Adeneuer Spätburgunder Gärkammer 2017, Ahr. 93
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