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Den Gyldene Freden: home Cooking and French classics without the exclamation mark

at the same time that the Swedish Academy is undergoing a most welcome refurbishing the same thing is happening on The Adertons stamlokus and canteen, Den Gyldene Freden.

There is no dussinkrog.

the Establishment at Österlånggatan opened in 1722, and is stated to be ”the world's oldest continuously existing restaurant”. Carl Michael Bellman, a regular, immortalized the address in its dryckessång ”Songs soldiers källaremarsch”. The guest list has since escaped the endless line of well-heeled merchant, along with the ill fated poet Erik Johan Craftsmanship, Anders Zorn (who in 1919 went in as a financier when threatened), as well as Selma Lagerlöf, Jussi Björling, Evert Taube, prince Eugen, Slas, Fred Åkerström and Cornelis Vreeswijk whose show ”Polaren Pär on social services,” takes place in these premises. Zorn bequeathed the institution to the Swedish Academy. The members still have the after party upstairs after the torsdagssammankomsterna.

Vegetarians do not have much to download in this anticipated herrborg.

Ancestors obliges. Still, this wonderful dining room behind the deep window niches and hollowed arches mismanaged for many years. Tokhöga tourist prices and low quality – as so often in the Old town, the capital's worst matkvarter.

for years, have misled the kryssningsturister it is now thought that the young chef-restaurateur Philip Fastén (Frantzén, Agriculture, Agriculture Bar) to get into shape on the whole. Krogkommissionen applaud the initiative.

It is, unfortunately, a good chunk left before the Gyldene Freden glitters again. The price level is unreasonable. The menu at times a roller - coaster.

nettle soup is turned over a handful of fresh herbs, 165 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

In the menu still dominate the classics, such as butter, cheese and herring, expensive fish and cocky meat cuts together with frankofila elements as coq au vin and crème caramel. Roe (245 sek/30 g) is served in the traditionally accompanied by onions, pickled cream, and toast, nice crispy slices of bread that is heavily saturated with butter. An excellent start and a striking design.

Pate a croute (235 usd) is enclosed wild ginger tryfferad with a hearty slice of foie gras beautifully surrounded by the neatly rounded click körsbärsmarmelad and parsley cream. A delight for the eye, certainly, but fairly bland for the palate. The mild accessories requires a more powerful marked pate. A nourishing nettle soup on the rotfruktbuljong be knocked from the pitcher over a handful of fresh herbs in a bowl ($165). Good for any of källarens rieslings.

an extortionately expensive piece of meat of excellent quality cut from the outside of the spine. The piece served with red wine sauce, herb butter and potatiskroketter, subtly, and delicately flavoured with anchovy. Frying and the texture is perfect – made just another for this award, but there is not the slightest exclamation.

the House, turbot is carried in butter sauce with presspotatis, byttor of spinach, grated horseradish and red beets. Flawless and, of course, enjoyable, but again a too oengagerande experience to the cost, 565 thalers. Longs really 2010-century well-traveled diners after the white fish into a sauce, Clémence Lefeuvre created over 100 years ago?

Meatballs with cream sauce, lingonberries and pressgurka, 235 kronor. Photo: Krogkommissionen

A better choice for the less wealthy matgästen is Anders Zorn favorite meatballs with cream sauce, lingonberries and pressgurka (235 sek). The new regime on the Peace deals with the classic with the proper respect. A handful of stable nutty färsbullar in skummig sauce with good klangbotten and impeccable accessories. The cake is also exemplary airy and rich in energy with fine smörtoner.

Vegetarians do not have much to download in this anticipated herrborg. A beautifully together cabbage pudding with jerusalem artichoke as been honed with pickles and vinbärstoner (sek 265) gets the fully approved, but should cost a hundred less.

would also have happily Zorn. Chocolate cake with whipped cream (120 sek) is a simple dessert that had earned greater finesse. Here we get a mediocre candy bar without a care pudrats with the cocoa powder to a dry and unimaginative creature. Four miserly assigned to the slices of blue cheese is served osnyggt directly on the bleckbricka with two kinds of crackers, and blood-red confiture ($165). Slightly happier makes us the lena nyponsoppan with ice cream and almond cake for 125 sek.

Nyponsoppa with ice cream and macaroon, 125 sek. Photo: Krogkommissionen

It should still be nonresidential diners who are willing to pay for the patina, and the storied history of Den Gyldene Freden. Köksfolket to be congratulated for that they respect the history. A special gold star deserves on the excellent dinner service in the finmatsalen two stairs down – flink, friendly, attentive with significant vinkunskaper.

I am also KK to the new management, so carefully has furnished about without tearing out the timeless drab and insuttna the interior from the ancient times. But should the restaurant be able to also capture the capital's natives with the help of precious home-style cooking is required to the kitchen dare more, raising the bar.

Philip Fastén has shown us before that he can reach far higher than this.

Read more of Krogkommissionens tests

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