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48 hours in Lyon, the capital of the Gauls, in full metamorphosis

Long asleep, Lugdunum wakes up, jumps to his feet, bounces. Under the impetus of young creative chefs who are competing with the large tables, stellate, and thr

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48 hours in Lyon, the capital of the Gauls, in full metamorphosis

Long asleep, Lugdunum wakes up, jumps to his feet, bounces. Under the impetus of young creative chefs who are competing with the large tables, stellate, and through cultural initiatives original that give a youthful look to the city, Lyon is reinventing itself. Evidenced by the construction of the eco-neighborhood of the Confluence, the success of the festival of the Nuits sonores and the biennale of contemporary art whose reputation goes beyond the borders of the region, or even the renovation of the Hotel-Dieu, icon heritage of the capital of the silk become a new place of the gastronomy of lyon. Follow the guide !

read also : The international City of gastronomy of Lyon inaugurated in the fall of The arrival

2h from Paris and Marseille, Lyon is also served by several major lines of TGV with your choice of a finish to the Part-Dieu, convenient if you are staying in the 6th arrondissement, the 7th, or the Croix-Rousse, or to the Lyon-Perrache railway station that offers fast access to the south of the peninsula and the area of the Confluence.

To move around in the city, the public Transport of Lyon (TCL) offer tickets of 24, 48 or 72 hours that allow one to borrow buses, metro and trams at will (6.20 (16€), as well as the Lyon City Card, which includes entry into many museums and a guided tour organised by the tourist office, and a cruise on the Saône river. This map is available online, at the tourist office or the stations Bellecour and Part-Dieu.



A court dating from the Renaissance in Old Lyon. Tristan Deschamps / ONLYLYON Tourism and Congress

First step of this escapade lyonnaise, the hill of Fourvière to be reached in amount, from the place Saint-Jean, on board of the "twine", the funicular and the local. From up here, the view is magical and offers a panorama of the city at 180°C, which emerge in the distance the peaks of the Alps. After a visit to the Basilica , built at the end of the Nineteenth century, and the théâtre antique , just a few minutes walk down towards the area of the Vieux Lyon and its famous traboules.

Typical of the Renaissance, a few of these covered walkways that meander between the buildings are open to the public, provided they respect the peace and quiet of local residents. Push for example the door of 54, rue Saint-Jean and you will discover the longest traboule in the area that will lead you to the street of the Ox. Behind the entrance to the 2, instead of the Government, lies a courtyard that is adorned with magnificent arches of an arch. The street of the Jews: there are also some wonders to the numbers 4, 8, and 10. Continue your walk to the Saint-Paul and across the bridge of the Leafy shade (take the time to contemplate the view) to reach the picturesque place Sathonay.


This pretty tree-shaded plaza, which is open in the summer of the contest animated of game of bowls, has become the new landmark of the foodistas lyonnais. By implementing Jewellery rue Hippolyte Flandrin in 2015, the chief Arnaud Laverdin has helped to upgrade the neighborhood (and the entire scene of lyon). In his restaurant bistronomique, one tastes, with a menu of three dishes, a cuisine inspired from her many travels. In Sapnà , his second address rue de la Martinière, it offers a variation ingenious street food of asian. For a breakfast more local, direction The girls cap , where Isabelle and Laura revisits with brio classics of the gastronomy of lyon.


traboule of 12, rue Fernand Rey, on the slopes of the Croix-Rousse. / ONLYLYON Tourism and Congress

A digestive walk is required : head to the Croix-Rousse . But be careful, it climbs ! Workers quarter of the silk, this hill has a turbulent history, marked by the revolts successive weavers in the Nineteenth century. It retains a village-like atmosphere, the well-tempered character, with, here also, superb courses and traboules: the passage Thiaffait, , which today includes several designer boutiques of lyon, the Cour des Voraces and its monumental staircase, or the passage linking the rue Imbert Colomes to Tables Claudiennes (n°20 n°55). Lift up your eyes and look at the many works of street art that invade the walls (and sidewalks) of the district, under the approving eye of the inhabitants who have not lost their spirit of rebellion. The top of the rise of the High-Side , the rue Pouteau , the Bellevue square or place Rouville , you can enjoy an unobstructed view of the city.

once on the plateau, and a reward very, very greedy waiting for you. Installed at 3, grande rue de la Croix Rousse, the shop of master chocolatier roannais François Pralus offers the best brioche and praline of the city (or world !), called the " praluline ". Caution, highly addictive ! If you still have some energy, continue on your way up to the painted wall of the Weavers , a trompe-l'oeil of 1 200 square metres, which illustrates the evolution of the daily life of the district, and up to the amazing jardin Rosa Mir (open April to October). Come back down and then slopes with the rise san Sebastian to join the place des Terreaux and its famous columns of Buren, which oversee the fountain Bartholdi , classified as a historical monument. In front, the palais Saint-Pierre which houses the musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon and one of the most beautiful gardens of the city.

Aperitif and dinner

The Lyon Opera house, rehabilitated in the early 1990s by Jean Nouvel. Franchella Stofleth / Opéra de Lyon

Just behind the place des Terreaux, the Opéra de Lyon , built in 1831 before being fully refurbished by Jean Nouvel, hides on a rooftop confidential not to be missed. Top of the 7th floor, you bénéficierez a panorama view about the roofs of the city centre and on Fourvière . At dusk, the atmosphere is amazing.

For dinner, go for it with closed eyes in Culina Hortus , the new table vegetarian Thomas Bouanich. In the kitchen: Adrien Zedda, a promising young chef of 24 years, whose ambition is to discover all the riches of the plant world with ingenuity. For those who cannot do without animal protein, in the direction of Workbench for its cuisine locavore delicacy, or in The Mother of Leah , a plug gastronomic, which enjoys a marvellous view on the quays of the Saône.


The reputation of the nights in lyon is more to do. For a cozy atmosphere, go to the bar Passage , a boudoir is intimate with soft lighting and background jazz music. Lovers of inventive cocktails will be able to sit at the counter of The Antique shop while fans of nightlife will go to Home , a restaurant that transforms into a dancefloor until 4am.



Bruno Bluntzer, director of the home Sibilia. Nicolas Villion

If there is a passion that is shared by the Lyonnais, it is the love of good food. On Sunday morning, the foodies can be found in the aisles of les Halles Paul Bocuse (Lyon 3rd), a covered market that brings together the best craftsmen of the region. Among our favorite places: the House Sibilia for the sausage brioche and quenelles, Home Antonin for the oysters at the counter with a glass of white filed, Sap for its delicious praline cake or even Mons for its mouth-watering selection of cheeses. Here, we play together, we recognize each other and greet from a distance, you speak loud, and above all it leaves the arm very busy for Sunday lunch, an institution in the lives of the Lyonnais.

then Go to the discovery of the peninsula . To foot or with the bus C9, join the place Bellecour , one of the largest pedestrian plazas of Europe. In its centre the equestrian statue of Louis XIV has become the meeting point of the inhabitants, who are used to meet "under the tail of the horse". Take the rue de la Charité , known for its mansions (to no. 17, the hotel de Nervo built in 1753, at no. 30, the hotel de la Croix-Laval attributed to Soufflot, at no. 34, the hotel de Villeroy, which houses the museum of Fabrics and decorative Arts). Make a hook by the bucolic place Gailleton and its panorama on the schools that line the Rhone, before reaching the quiet district of Ainay.

lunch Break

There, in the shade of the abbey, a plug bourgeois due to the resistance. Founded in 1928, the Café Comptoir Abel cultivates its spirit of neighborhood bistro with its wood panelling, tables and vintage decoration old-fashioned. Mark used to that mix, however, more and more tourists, the restaurant offers the classics of the gastronomy of lyon. Special Mention for the chicken rice sauce supreme (we have never eaten a rice also goûtu !), the quenelle (version XXL) and the gratin of crayfish, flagship dishes of the house.


The cube orange, designed by the architects Dominique Jakob and Brendan MacFarlane. / ONLYLYON Tourism and Congress

The program of the afternoon, the new district of the Confluence built on the former Docks of Lyon. To get there, ride the tram T1 from the train station of Perrache to the cessation of the musée des Confluences , at the southern end of the peninsula. This is an architectural event, designed by the austrian agency Coop Himmelb(l)au, is home to an important collection of natural history and ethnography. A tour of the building is necessary, if only to observe the prowess of its designers and enjoy the amazing view from the terrace of the fourth floor, to which access is free.

then Remount the quays of the Saône with its buildings more avant-garde than the others which make this former industrial wasteland of the contemporary showcase of the city of Lyon. Among the remnants of the past port of the district, the Sugar , a former sugar warehouse rehabilitated in the place of arts and culture. Architecture lovers will be able to contact Nicolas Bruno Jacquet, a guide specialized in the history of urban planning, which organizes private tours of the district very rewarding.

once arrived at the shopping center of the Confluence, to embark on board the Ferry , the river shuttle local who will take you back in a few minutes Bellecour . A peaceful walk during which you can admire the charm of the quays of the Saône river, with their tall buildings, colorful and historic landmarks (including the cathedral of St. John and former Palace of Justice ).

the End of the day

The Grand Hotel-Dieu de Lyon, which has been totally renovated in 2019, which is home to the InterContinental hotel. Tristan Deschamps / ONLYLYON Tourism and Congress

Last stop of this trip of lyon: the Grand Hôtel-Dieu , a former hospital of the Eighteenth century, recently renovated, which now hosts the InterContinental, the international City of gastronomy, as well as a collection of shops and restaurants. Sit in the comfortable chairs in the Dome, the bar of the hotel, with the choice, as a function of time, a tea time dream or a cocktail.

address Book

Good food

In The Jewelry, cauliflower, chocolate, hazelnut butter. Facebook Jewellery

The Jewelry store, 16 rue Hippolyte Flandrin, 69001. Tel. : 04 78 08 14 03.

Sapnà, 7 rue de la Martinière, 69001. Tel. : 09 81 77 27 25.

The girls cap, 20 rue Sergent Blandan, 69001. Tel. : 04 78 30 40 44.

Culina Hortus, 38 rue de l'arbre Sec, 69001. Tel. : 04 69 84 71 08.

The Established, 22 rue des Remparts d Ainay, 69002. Tel. : 04 78 37 49 83.

Mother Leah, 11 quai des Célestins, 69002. Tel. : 04 78 42 01 33.

Le Café Comptoir Abel, 25 rue Guynemer, 69002. Tel. : 04 78 37 46 18.

go Out, drink a glass

The Muses, 1, place de la comédie, 69001. Tel. : 04 72 00 45 00.

Bar Passage, 8, rue du platre, 69001. Tel. : 04 78 37 08 68.

The Antique dealer, 20, Rue Hippolyte Flandrin, 69001. Tel. : 06 34 21 54 65.

The House, 4, rue Jonas Salk, 69007. Tel. : 04 72 72 96 96.

The Dome 20, quai Jules Courmont, 69002. Tel. : 04 26 99 30 20.

Where to sleep ?

MiHotel La Tour Rose, 22 rue du Boeuf, 69005. Tel. : 04 28 29 65 94.

The Hotel de l'abbaye, 20, street of the Abbey of Ainay, 69002. Tel. : 04 78 05 60 40.


Pralus (brioche with a praline), 3, grande rue de la Croix Rousse, 69004, or 32, rue de Brest, 69002.

Charcuterie Sibilia (quenelles, saucisson brioche, rosette de Lyon), Les Halles Paul Bocuse, 102, cours Lafayette, 69003. Tel. : 04 78 62 36 28.

Chocolates Neighbor (cushions and dumplings in chocolate), 11, place Bellecour, 69002. Tel. : 04 78 37 79 41.

Chocolatier Bernachon, 42, cours Franklin Roosevelt, 69006. Tel. : 04 78 24 37 98.

The Beautiful Wick (brand of candles created by a couple of Lyonnais), 32, rue de Brest, 69002. Tel. : 04 78 82 46 82.

The writing you conseilleHaltes gourmet in the heart of LyonL'InterContinental Lyon-Hôtel-Dieu: the expert opinion of the FigaroSujetsLyonAuvergne-Rhône-AlpesFrancevoyageidée week-endcity guideTourismeAucun comment

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